Just this week we’ve heard from Burberry, Dunhill and Dr Martens on this front.Burberry, for instance, has come together with Tate Britain to support the ‘Sarah Lucas: Happy Gas’ exhibition honouring one of Britain’s leading artists.
It brings together four decades of Lucas’s work and showcases more than 75 artworks, from early sculptures and photographs to brand new works shown for the very first time.It makes sense for Burberry to get involved given its renewed focus under Daniel Lee on stressing its Britishness, and also the simple fact that the destination gallery (which the company said is “an integral part of the cultural landscape” of the UK) is close to Burberry’s headquarters on Horseferry Road, London, SW1.The firm’s partnership with Tate Britain “builds on the brand’s legacy of supporting British arts and culture, from partnering with international exhibitions and cultural institutions to funding creative arts scholarships and helping youth organisations provide greater access to the creative industries through The Burberry Foundation”, we’re told.Meanwhile, Dr Martens has just dropped its latest collab which is also a link-up with the Tate ‘brand’ via a celebration of artist Ithell Colquhoun.
Dr Martens said Colquhoun “was a provocative artist who refused to conform or compromise. Her work is deeply grounded in the occult and nature — and frequently explores sex and gender. Often overlooked alongside the towering male figures of surrealism, our collaboration with Tate celebrates her work — with our boots as the canvas”.The new collab really underscores the relevance of art to the mainstream and focuses on its 1460 boot. It showcases two of the artist’s “most expressive works” ‘Volcanic Flare’ and ‘Example of Decalcomania Technique’.Another brand, like these two, that’s all about Britishness is Richemont’s Dunhill and its own art link for the AW23 season. It’s partnering with Frieze Masters (taking place in London’s Regents Park from 11-15 October) to bring the Frieze Masters Talks content programme back to the fair for the first time since 2019.It said: “Frieze Masters offers a contemporary perspective on thousands of years of art history and features collectible objects across the ages, from masterpieces of the ancient era and Old Masters to icons of the 20th century”.The talks will be curated by Dr Nicholas Cullinan, Director of the National Portrait Gallery, and hosted within Dunhill’s design-led auditorium at the fair.
It added: “The partnership, further cements the House’s new vision and direction in terms of supporting cultural legacy and creating intelligent conversations.“Pairing influential international artists, such as Maggi Hambling and Sarah Lucas with leading industry figures, Sheena Wagstaff and Louisa Buck, the talks series will comprise several illuminating discussions across the five-day fair exploring connections between historical art and contemporary practice”.The Dunhill space at Frieze Masters will be multifunctional in design, “imbuing the revitalised savoir faire of the House, distilling a sense of masculine elegance and classicism. Made to Measure fabrics will take centre stage across soft furnishings and the cladding of a focal wall, whilst extraordinary pieces from Dunhill’s archive and current offering, curated by Nick Foulkes, author of Dunhill by Design, will be exhibited throughout the space”.The company is also hosting a kick-off event on 6 October at its Mayfair flagship when Tim Marlow, Director of the Design Museum will chair a panel talk between Nicholas Cullinan, visual artist Shirin Neshat and architect Jamie Fobert.And talking of Tim Marlow, let’s not forget the Design Museum’s own contribution to the fashion-art trend, its current Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion exhibition.That kicked off just as London Fashion Week began and celebrates the BFC’s NewGen initiative with the creativity of London’s young designers and their artistic inspirations under the spotlight — and is also sponsored by Alexander McQueen.
All of these happenings may have come during a Fashion Month in which ‘quiet luxury’ was a key trend on the runways, but there’s a strong art strand that’s a world away from understated also characterising current designer fashion.It may be the labels known for their art links (such as Schiaparelli) playing to the gallery, or collabs (such as the recent Jean Paul Gaultier-KNWLS link-up) also being as much about striking (and priced-as-an-artwork) fashion statements as about wearable clothes.
Then there was the recent Vogue World that aimed to replicate the lustre of New York’s Met Gala and also blend fashion with the arts.Meanwhile, the street style surrounding Fashion Month has also morphed into something that’s been less about ‘dressing well’ and more about turning yourself into a living artwork that’s made to be seen above anything else.It looks like the fashion meets art trend has a lot further to go.
